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Short Break to Loch Earn and the Trossachs

As we await the new tourist season with its increased traffic on our roads, we remind ourselves of the importance of the industry to our economy. During the winter months it is easy to become possessive about the natural beauty surrounding us, but there is a long history of sharing it with others. Numerous travellers since the 18th century have commented on our landscape of mountains and water. The minister of Callander delivered his Old Statistical Account  (OSA) contribution to Sir John Sinclair in 1791 and wrote that the Trossachs were ‘often visited by persons of taste desirous of seeing nature in her rudest and most unpolished state’ . With the publication of his long poem, ‘The Lady of the Lake’ in 1810 Sir Walter Scott brought increasing numbers of people to Loch Katrine and the Trossachs.  ‘Rob Roy’, published in 1818, encouraged visitors to discover the land of the proscribed Clan MacGregor. Tourism was well established.

On a winter Sunday, before the start of the visitor season, we drove south to revisit some of the area ourselves.  St. Fillans, at the east end of Loch Earn  was our first stop and there was a wonderfully subtle morning light on the loch.

In 1817 Clementina  Drummond, who had inherited the huge Drummond estate, released land by the lochside for development.  The village, nestling beneath the hills, was  named after the Irish missionary Saint Faolan who established a fort in the 6th century on the distinctive little hill of Dundurn just outside  the village.  St Fillans has a delightful setting and boasts solidly built 19th century houses and three sizeable hotels. Attracting visitors was obviously part of its original plan. The health-giving qualities of the area were promoted, with nearby Crieff building a Hydropathic hotel.

The disused railway reminded us of the extensive network constructed in the late 19th century to transport travellers and locals;  like the Ballinluig to Aberfeldy line, many came to an end with Dr Beeching in the 1960’s.

Loch Earn, one of the country’s deepest lochs, is seven miles long.  Since the 1950’s it has attracted huge numbers to the loch, especially water skiers. Unpopular with environmentalists, the sport is well established and will probably continue. If you want to enjoy the loch’s tranquillity, try and avoid high season. 

Near the village is Neish Island, a former crannog , idyllic on a peaceful  Sunday morning. The impression belies its bloody history and the massacre which took place there in 1612. The story, a reminder of feuding and brutal clan warfare, involves the Clan Neish and the MacNabs from Killin. The Neishes set upon a MacNab servant returning from Crieff with Christmas goodies. The MacNab Chief was furious and his twelve sons set off carrying a boat to launch on Loch Earn. They landed and slaughtered the Neishes, except for a small boy who swam ashore and from whom, it is said, all the Neishes are descended.

On the road to the south of the loch is a huge caravan park;  once past this we seemed to step into  another age. We hardly met a vehicle as we drove the narrow lane among winter woodland with views of  loch and mountain beyond.

Passing Ardvorlich House, home of the Stewarts of Ardvolich for 420 years, reminded me of visiting their spectacular rhododenron glen, at its height in May when it is open to the public. For keen walkers Ben Vorlich offers a splendid challenge and great views.

Taking the A84 south we turned towards Loch Katrine and followed the Pass of Achray. The winding ascent  has spectacular views and a landscape of rocks and hillocks which inspired the name ‘Trossachs’  meaning ‘bristled‘. A 19th century gazeteer described the country as ’of roughness and wildness, of tangled inextricable boskiness‘.A brief visit to Callander followed, reminding us that it was the setting for  ‘Dr. Finlay’s Casebook’, televised  in the 1960’s. The observant minister of the OSA spoke of the ‘bold, stupendous rock’ above the town contrasting with the meandering river below and the vivid green, fertile fields. He described ancient birches as ‘hanging down their venerable locks, in waving ringlets as if to cover the nakedness of the rocks.’

In the 19th century, Callander also had a Hydropathic hotel and six coaches a day travelled between the town and the Trossachs.

With its proximity to the Central belt and Lowlands, the area has a long history of tourism. The country is delightfully varied and well worth exploring, but do try and avoid the high season.  How I would love to have taken the train from Callander to Oban and admired the landscape from some of those disused lines!

Pictured above is Loch Ard in the Trossachs

Gillian Hull