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Short Break at Dalmeny

Visiting Scotland’s stately homes, especially those close to Edinburgh or Glasgow, can be frustrating in the summer months, as one is often hurried through crowded rooms full of tantalising objects. For the last three years a friend and I have been to three properties close to the Forth Bridge. Each visit was towards the end of the season, and we had the house almost to ourselves with a guide who enjoyed having time to chat. Hopetoun House and the House of the Binns were both a delight and this year’s choice, Dalmeny House (pictured here), certainly came up to expectations.

Dalmeny is just to the east of Queensferry, and its vivid green parkland sweeps down to the south coast of the Forth with wonderful views across the water to Fife. The home of the 7th Earl of Rosebery, the house replaced the ancient Barnbougle Castle  which was purchased with the estate by Sir Archibald Primrose in 1662. His son was created the first Earl of Rosebery. The castle suffered from its close proximity to the sea, and began to deteriorate; in the 18th century the 3rd Earl was drenched when a wave came through the dining-room window! Today the castle has been restored but is not open to the public.

In 1815 the 4th Earl wisely decided to build a little further away from the water. He chose as his architect William Wilkins, a close friend with whom he had studied at Cambridge. Though Wilkins preferred the classical style, his inspiration for Dalmeny was the Tudor period, the first such house in Scotland. William Wilkins’ prestigious buildings south of the border include the Hall at King’s College, Cambridge and the National Gallery in London. Some of the interiors at Dalmeny are in the Tudor-Gothic style while others are Regency period.  The house’s interior is well designed with a greater degree of comfort than many mansions. Even the conditions for the servants were in advance of their time.

One of the best known members of the family was the 5th Earl of Rosebery, who became Prime Minister in 1894. Known as a brilliant public speaker, he introduced modern style electioneering which he had seen at work in the United States. He also had a keen interest in horse-racing and breeding, and won many ‘Classic’ races including three Derbys. His descendants have inherited this interest;  their racing colours are rose and primrose.

The 5th Earl was a noted historian, and had a wonderful library. He was fascinated by Napoleon, wrote his biography and amassed a large collection of items connected with him. These rather stark, masculine rooms contrast hugely with the delicate French and Regency interiors with their exquisitely made furniture and porcelain. We were lucky to be able to spend time appreciating the superb workmanship of these treasures.  

The 5th Earl married Hannah Rothschild of the highly successful banking family who acquired many objects after the French Revolution. Hannah, the present Earl’s great-grandmother, brought with her to Dalmeny some wonderful items, including pictures. An only child, her father was Baron Meyer de Rothschild who began building his huge Buckinghamshire mansion, Mentmore Towers, in 1850. The original five brothers established branches of the newly founded bank in five great European cities, including London. Some readers may have visited another remarkable Rothschild home, Waddesdon Manor, now owned by the National Trust.

The present Earl of Rosebery’s parents were very involved in the founding of the Edinburgh Festival in 1947 and many renowned performers were entertained at Dalmeny. In 1977 the present Earl and his wife chose some of Mentmore’s finest pieces before the great mansion was put up for sale. Visiting Dalmeny, one is astonished at the huge variety of treasures on view. Where else can one see unusual items such as Captain Cook’s sea chest and a Sevres model of a dog which had belonged to Marie Antoinette? At the same time one feels Dalmeny is not just a museum, but a much-loved family home.

Do leave time to browse when you visit this treasure house.

by Gillian Hull