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Short Break in Brechin

On a wintry day in January, with the weather blowing from the west, we decided to head eastwards in the hope of encountering better conditions. Several years ago we had visited the ancient town of Brechin, still proud of its role as a city until the Reformation. It lies just off the A 90 almost midway between Dundee and Aberdeen.

As one approaches through pleasantly wooded outskirts there is a glimpse of two distinctive towers. One is the solid medieval tower of the cathedral, which was built up against an 11th century round tower in an area which was once at the heart of Pictland. One of only two such structures in Scotland, Brechin’s round tower is older than that at Abernethy.  Ireland has a number of similar towers which were attached to Celtic monasteries. Built as belfrys and watchtowers, they could also offer shelter to communities under siege, possibly from the Vikings.

In a park on the outskirts of Brechin is Pictavia, an informative exhibition about the enigmatic people who have left so many intriguing examples of their work in southeast Perthshire and Angus.

In the 10th century King Kenneth II gave a ‘great monastery’ to the settlement, while in the mid 12th century King David I created a bishopric at Brechin. Not long afterwards a weekly market was established and a century later, an almshouse; the Maison Dieu, of which only a fragment remains, was founded by William de Brechin for the care of the needy. After the Reformation and religious upheavals in the 17th century, the cathedral became the Church of Scotland parish church in 1703.  Over the years it fell into disrepair, with the chancel and transepts eventually in a ruinous state while the central part remained in use. 

At the beginning of the 20th century a huge restoration programme was undertaken and an impressive series of stained glass windows installed. Designs were by some of the leading artists of the day from both sides of the border. They included David Gauld, one of the Glasgow boys, and Edward Burne-Jones who worked with William Morris and Ruskin. Today the small Cathedral has a welcoming and intimate atmosphere. There are some fine Pictish remains on view, including a magnificent late 9th century cross slab and a remarkable 11th century hogback tomb carved in old red sandstone with intertwined beasts.

Outside it is well worth gazing up at the Round Tower; some distance from the ground is a narrow door, definitely not designed for the overweight of the 20th century. Above the door is a stone carved figure of  Christ with saints on each side of the door, and two crouching beasts at the base.    

The Town House is close to the cathedral. It is a handsome 18th century building which was once courtroom, prison and Guild Room. Today it has a more peaceful function as Tourist Information Centre and museum. Brechin is built on a hillside above the fast-flowing South Esk. A number of little streets and houses crowd around the cathedral with some tempting alleyways such as Skinners Burn, where skins were taken down to the river to be washed. The town had various industries including bleach works and paper mills. Down the hill is the ‘Auld Brig’, a fine stone late 15th century structure which replaced a wooden bridge built in 1220. Look back up at this fine old town with its attractive skyline.

By the time we left Brechin the promised sun was shining and we made for Montrose Basin, stopping at the Lurgies for a walk;  what an unattractive name for a beautiful setting at the landward end of the Basin! It is a wonderful place for watching birds, and we were lucky to see huge numbers of species such as Shelduck, Greylags and lapwing, whooper swans and duck. I find it quite humbling to see and listen to wild creatures in such profusion. We drove on to Lunan Bay and, remembering the weather was coming from the west, we climbed over a sand bank to benefit from its protection. Below us was an amazingly calm North Sea, gently lapping the pristine sand. I noticed one solitary sanderling running up and down in typical fashion, as if his life depended on it!

Sometimes it is worth listening to the forecasts before you decide whether to go east or west for a day out.

Gillian Hull